Oh boy! With my Bohemian socks don’t match the earthy living and a whacko mindset—discipline is too rare a term to ask for. In fact ‘disgusting’! A pool of mud, lush paddy fields with green monsoon laid outstretched, smoky mountain cliff, moss under the sole, and incessant rain; it’s a gift being a ‘Bohemian’.
A striking feature of Indian history towards the end of seventeenth century lies the emergence of Marathadom and the hero, Shivaji—the warrior king. This upsurge of interest and urge to catch the breathtaking views from the pivotal bases created by Shivaji which has also been the witnesses to many historic struggles; forced me to pack myself in a rucksack and set to expedition.
Strategically perched atop a pyramid-shaped hill, the 3500ft high hill-fort in western India, Tikona (also known as Vitandgad) is triangular with lofty footsteps and wild ravines. Instead of walking the muddy road from Tikona village to the base and then hike, I decided the difficult route that otherwise short but deadly…(In fact, I walked the muddy road and after having realized that it won’t justify the valor of the guerilla king I take the other one after having my shoes smudged). The initial views are very impressive, huge sheer cliff faces, rock formations and small arches with soft green visible on the way in. Rains made it all difficult. The loose soil and fast-flowing muddy water add to difficulty. I was cursing myself but still climbed higher and higher with indomitable spirit and changing vista at every 500ft.
You know, Mama! Sometimes I like to take the difficult way only to be nearer to death. I wonder what it feel like having fallen down the great heights, hanging at the rock while a big *ugly* spider crawl down my back. A sense of thrill and escapade stayed in my mind, I can't forget anything and it all get bottled up in here and sometimes I feel like a crazy man. Sloughed, slouched, slipped, slithered, smeared, and soaked, I sniggered to the deadly ravines and move through the narrow trail that slithers and withers away.
And, voila! I made it.
The fort is a trekking destination noted for the large doors, stony staircases (which are narrow in width and unruly (oh!) full of moss too), natural cisterns, and some Satvahana caves. The fort forms a quartet to three of its sisters – Tung, Lohagarh, and Visapur – citadels of Maratha power and their glory. The Nizam dynasty (first conqueror of the fort) having lost the fort to Shivaji in 1657 along with the region who used it strategically due to its height as the watch-tower for the entire Pawana Mawal region. In June 11, 1665 Shivaji surrendered the fort to Mughal warrior Kubadkhan under the ‘Treaty of Purandar’ but later re-captured by Marathas. A small battle was fought with the British on Tikona in year 1818 and the fort was damaged to a great extent. Till date the fort of Tikona lies in the form of ruins.
Having climbed the fort-top (3558ft approx) I stretched my arms as the breeze kissed my face and rain drenched till the soul. Mamma…I felt like a conqueror! Standing at the top of the world (yes, I got myself naked) clasped under the smoky cover; I though missed the views of region underneath yet, cold and contended. Unruly and undisciplined!
My soul was lonely like a stone - there was no moss; and when I danced I danced alone.
PS: A special thanks to Subhash, the son of the village headman and my guide for the day who escorted me through the danger trail, soaked in constant rain, brought me to his home to serve hot food. Thanks Aaji and Ajoba.
A striking feature of Indian history towards the end of seventeenth century lies the emergence of Marathadom and the hero, Shivaji—the warrior king. This upsurge of interest and urge to catch the breathtaking views from the pivotal bases created by Shivaji which has also been the witnesses to many historic struggles; forced me to pack myself in a rucksack and set to expedition.
Strategically perched atop a pyramid-shaped hill, the 3500ft high hill-fort in western India, Tikona (also known as Vitandgad) is triangular with lofty footsteps and wild ravines. Instead of walking the muddy road from Tikona village to the base and then hike, I decided the difficult route that otherwise short but deadly…(In fact, I walked the muddy road and after having realized that it won’t justify the valor of the guerilla king I take the other one after having my shoes smudged). The initial views are very impressive, huge sheer cliff faces, rock formations and small arches with soft green visible on the way in. Rains made it all difficult. The loose soil and fast-flowing muddy water add to difficulty. I was cursing myself but still climbed higher and higher with indomitable spirit and changing vista at every 500ft.
You know, Mama! Sometimes I like to take the difficult way only to be nearer to death. I wonder what it feel like having fallen down the great heights, hanging at the rock while a big *ugly* spider crawl down my back. A sense of thrill and escapade stayed in my mind, I can't forget anything and it all get bottled up in here and sometimes I feel like a crazy man. Sloughed, slouched, slipped, slithered, smeared, and soaked, I sniggered to the deadly ravines and move through the narrow trail that slithers and withers away.
And, voila! I made it.
The fort is a trekking destination noted for the large doors, stony staircases (which are narrow in width and unruly (oh!) full of moss too), natural cisterns, and some Satvahana caves. The fort forms a quartet to three of its sisters – Tung, Lohagarh, and Visapur – citadels of Maratha power and their glory. The Nizam dynasty (first conqueror of the fort) having lost the fort to Shivaji in 1657 along with the region who used it strategically due to its height as the watch-tower for the entire Pawana Mawal region. In June 11, 1665 Shivaji surrendered the fort to Mughal warrior Kubadkhan under the ‘Treaty of Purandar’ but later re-captured by Marathas. A small battle was fought with the British on Tikona in year 1818 and the fort was damaged to a great extent. Till date the fort of Tikona lies in the form of ruins.
Having climbed the fort-top (3558ft approx) I stretched my arms as the breeze kissed my face and rain drenched till the soul. Mamma…I felt like a conqueror! Standing at the top of the world (yes, I got myself naked) clasped under the smoky cover; I though missed the views of region underneath yet, cold and contended. Unruly and undisciplined!
My soul was lonely like a stone - there was no moss; and when I danced I danced alone.
PS: A special thanks to Subhash, the son of the village headman and my guide for the day who escorted me through the danger trail, soaked in constant rain, brought me to his home to serve hot food. Thanks Aaji and Ajoba.
It was great reading on Tikona. it brought back memories from my HASH-ing days in Bhopal. Do look for HASH teams in Pune, am sure there are trekking groups in your city too. Photos were good too...and I wish to see your book in print soon...reading your blogs surely makes me think strongly about it! You would make a bestselling writer.
ReplyDeleteNice description of your trek with a bit of history lesson. Makes one want to trek themselves :)
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